Monday, January 25, 2010

A Berber Village, the Sahara and the Hollywood of Morocco

The last couple days of the trip were the most crazy and involved the longest time sitting on a bus, but they were also the most incredible. From Marrakesh we made out way to a small Berber village called Tillhouette. Along the way we had been invited to attend a Hillulah in another small village. A Hillulah is a celebration that occurs on the day of the yortzeit (anniversary of the death) of a Rabbi or another important Jewish figure. Unfortunately I don't even remember the name of the Rabbi of the one we attended. I do remember the village though. It was a very small village, donkeys were everywhere. We wound our way up to the crest of this hill, on which a small Jewish club resided. The main feature of the Jewish club was the graves of these two Rabbi which had been built after a donation from a wealthy Jewish man in Marrakesh. A (now) old woman, who was there, was told in a dream that this was where the graves had to be put, and thus they were built there. After the Hillulah when we were making our way back down to the bus, I and two friends got caught in the middle of a sheep herd. We thought there were going to run into us and we were going to be doing a hot potato dance to avoid being trampled but it was like oil and water, they just moved around us giving us a wide berth of space.
The Sheep Herd
From there we traveled to this village; Tillhouette. It was a very long bus ride and then another hour or so in these rickety vans because the roads became to narrow for the bus to transverse. We arrived in this small Berber village and because of the trek it took to get there I am sure it is not a popular tourist spot. We toured a Cashbah (castle or fortress) which was honestly just a really really cool old building.
Then we sat around a fire with many of the local villagers. The Berber women performed dances and songs, and encouraged/forced all of the Kivunim females to join them. It was quite unreal, it looked like something you'd see in a movie.
Local Berber Child
Cashbah



There was this one hotel, I guess you would call it there, and that's where we all stayed. They made us a home cooked meal very similar to the one we had had the night before, soup and couscous. And then the evening was hours. There wasn't much to do in this village but oh my, the stars there were magical. There was no light pollution from anything, so just a black sky and an absolutely gorgeous array of stars. It was so amazing. I could have lied there forever, if only it wasn't so cold.
The next day we packed up early, took the vans back to the bus and settled in for the longest bus ride of the trip to the Sahara. Along the way we stopped at a gorge, which was quite striking. A small stream ran down the center, and on either side loomed these huge cliffs.
The Gorge
But it was nothing to what were going to see in the Sahara. The extensive day of travel ended with an hour Jeep ride in the desert to the hotel we were spending the night at. It was pitch black and we could not see where we were going in the slightest.

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